accommodations

Nothing has done more to take a sense of civic identity, a feeling of community, from small-town America than the loss of old hotels to the motel business. The hotel was once where things coalesced, where you could meet both townspeople and travelers. Not so in a motel. No matter how you build it, the motel remains the haunt of the quick and dirty, …

As travelers are becoming more sophisticated, intrepid, and value-conscious, they're looking for accommodations that promise a real connection with the European people and landscape and with fellow travelers—a connection that the modern-day hotel or motel doesn't foster. Well, between hostels, pensions, camping, rentals, homestays, farmstays, home exchanges, volunteer work, paid work, and study there are increasingly many such accommodation options to choose from.

Hostels

Hostels began in 1920's Germany as lodges for fattening and cheering up German youths who'd suffered through World War I and it's aftermath. Hostels are much more than that now—although on occasion they still play host to swarming school groups. Today, hostels operate Europe-wide in the cities, in the villages, in the countryside, in castles, on islands, along the beaches, on sailing ships, and in the mountains. Many are spartan, but a considerable number rival hotels—offering single rooms, doubles, triples, and quads, apart from the classic summer camp-style bunkhouse arrangement. Most have an area for socializing. Some even sport bars. One hostel I've stayed at, nestled near the base of small medieval town gracing the lip of a yawning Provençal valley, boasts a crystal clear swimming pool extending into a vineyard and serves up a delicious meal—complete with all the wine you want—each night. And the average hostel charges just US$12 for a night's stay. As such, hostels attract interesting and fun people of all ages from all over, who either seek out or find themselves caught up in hostelling's unparalleled and positive social dynamic, people with whom you'll exchange travel advice, jokes, addresses, cooking duties and more, people who'll contribute to and share some of the best days of your life. As travel guru Rick Steves says, "Hostelling is a philosophy. A hosteller trades services and privacy for a chance to live simply and in cooperation with people from around the world."

Most people associate hostels with the college-age crowd. It's true that the clientele slants toward the young; but middle-class families, school groups, the elderly, and professionals—young and old—frequent so-called "youth" hostels. Only Bavaria's hostels still impose an age restriction (26 years and under). I've met a jazz musician, a sculptor, an architect, and a private detective in hostels; I've met actors, engineers, Australian Golden Oldies rugby players, teachers, welders, writers, lawyers, doctors, nurses, computer programmers, a group of fifth graders in former East Germany who bashfully practiced their English on native speakers—a friend and me—for the first time; I've met families; I've met ninety-year old women; and I've met several people who work for the same international business consulting firm I once did. If people are as worthy of exploration as are continents, then each hostel is like a Pangea, a supercontinent or conglomeration of continents, waiting for you to discover it. In this sense hostels transcend the physical continent of Europe and become destinations in themselves. Often you'll hear people describing their travel plans in terms of hostels: "I'm going to [this or that] hostel," they'll say.

A remarkably high percentage of hostellers basically travel by themselves—and it's worth noting of this subset that a fantastically high percentage are young women. I say "basically by themselves" because a phenomenal and universal tendency exists for lone travelers to bond and band together. Often such bands end up traveling together for several days or weeks or months even, splitting up with great memories and no hard feelings whenever this or that member decides to go his or her own way. It does take a measure of courage to travel alone, but this fact helps explain why lone travelers tend to be even more interesting than people who travel in groups or with old friends. On many occasions I've sat drinking beers or eating dinner with a group of five or six travelers who were all traveling solo. These groups have always been unanimous in concluding that solo is the best way to travel. Indeed, solo travel results in such an unusual and marvelous dynamic that you'll wonder if it'll change for the better the social approach you take at home; unfortunately, though, I think it's unique to the travel circuit. In fact I've found that when I travel with even just one friend, we tend not to meet as many people: we're usually having a good time as is and so don't need to meet others. It's this common need, combined with a desire to interact, that's the catalyst of the wonderful hostelling dynamic. What Arthur Frommer said is remarkably true: hostels are the "most dynamic travel facilities on earth."

And a hostelling "circuit" truly exists. On myriad occasions I've run into people I'd met one or two months previous and a thousand or two thousand miles away. Or I've met someone who'd met someone I'd met. You follow? The circuit amounts to a true and powerful, albeit transitory, community that springs from its fun-loving, gutsy, intelligent, multicultural and multinational elements and is catalyzed and intensified by amazing surroundings and the transience inspired by the plurality of those surroundings. Indeed, the hostelling community is one of the most modern communities on earth, analogous to a manifestation of the burgeoning virtual-community that exists traveling fiber optic cables.

It all reminds me of John Cllellon Holmes' description of Jack Kerouac and company.

Though they rushed back and forth across the country on the slightest pretext, gathering kicks along the way, their real journey was inward; and if they seemed to trespass most boundaries, legal and moral, it was only in the hope of finding a belief on the other side.

But apart from recognizing the inwardly spiritual journeys that many hostellers are on, you sense a collective and unmistakable vibe—still spiritual in its nature, but outwardly so—when you're tossing back a few cold ones with, say, a couple of Germans, some Italians, a South African, two Swiss, an Aussie, an Israeli, a couple of Canadians, a Kiwi, three Belgians and a Swede; it's like in e.e. cummings' Enormous Room, but with the players brought together by the power of peace instead of war; it's the answer to and the result of centuries of conflict; it's the super reality of a new world, the salty stuff of living history; and you drink drink drink it down.

Of course, not every hostel will jive with your sensibility or catalyze a profound tickling of your spirit. Rely first on word of mouth and second on the budget-travel guidebooks.

Many hostels belong to the Hostelling International organization. Such hostels denote themselves with the stylized logo—standard worldwide—that I show in the General Driving Info chapter. To stay in such hostels you should get a Hostelling International (HI) membership card. You can still stay in these hostels if you don't have the card, but you'll have to pay a bit more. The card costs US$10 for persons under 18 years of age, US$25 for adults 18­54 years of age, US$15 for persons 55 years of age and up, US$35 for families with children under 16 years of age, or US$250 for life. See the Documents chapter for instructions on how to order the card.

Aside from the lower rates at hostels, a membership in HI entitles you to numerous substantial discounts. As part of each country chapter, I list those HI discounts that relate to driving and to ferry passage. Other HI discounts include reduced prices for museum admission, sporting equipment rental, and more. Even if you don't plan to stay in hostels, you may find that these discounts make membership in HI worthwhile.

Furthermore, hundreds of HI hostels operate in wonderful spots across Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the US. I bet you never even knew they were around. Such domestic hostels offer a great way to cheaply travel your home country while you act as unofficial ambassador to visiting foreigners.

Thanks to a new international computer system, you can now make reservations with participating HI hostels in over seventy countries by calling one source; in the US the number to call is 202 783 6161. You can use Visa or MasterCard to pay for the reservations. A US$2 reservation fee applies. However, only make reservations if you must: your plans are likely to change. (Remember the fecundity of the unexpected.) For example, do make reservations for popular big-city hostels during the high season. And always make reservations in Paris, or else get to the hostel before 9:00 a.m. Some hostels, though, don't take reservations.

Hostels operating separately from the HI organization are known as "independents" and, of course, require no membership card. The services provided by these hostels tend to be better than those of HI hostels, the rules less limiting, and the atmosphere more fun and easy going. But of course this rule doesn't always hold true.

Apart from hostels located in the center of a major city, almost all offer free parking. What's more, nearly every hostel sports a well-equipped kitchen (with pots, pans, silverware, dishes, ovens, refrigerators, etc.) where you can cook your own food. Often I team up with other hostellers to cook—and clean up after—rather impressive meals. Many hostels also offer coin- or token-operated laundry facilities (soap included gratis). Of course the sink or a laundromat is always an option. (Laundromats sell soap.) Hostels provide the pillows and blankets; but many HI hostels require a "sleep sheet", a sewn-up sheet that you sleep in. If you don't have a sleep sheet, the hostel will provide one—usually for a small fee. You could claim you have a sleep sheet and then proceed to use, say, your sleeping bag; but for your comfort, and to avoid these small charges piling up, it's worth making your own sleep sheet and bringing it along. You should bring a pair of ear plugs too; the little foam kind are the best. These beauties will add at least one hour of sleep to each of your nights in a hostel. Even if you're in a room with five other people, ear plugs will make it sound like an empty nest. Buy your ear plugs at a pharmacy at home or in Europe, or get them free of charge when you order something such as a sleep sack or neck pouch from Europe Through the Backdoor. (See the Resources chapter.) You might also want an eye mask; North Americans can buy a mask and ear plugs from the marvelous Magellan's Travel Essentials catalog. (Again, see the Resources chapter.)

Hostels have a reputation as being places of theft, a reputation that's largely undeserved. No budget traveler ever comes home and rattles off a list of all the hostels where nobody stole something from them, but be sure they'll tell you of the hostels where such a theft occurred. In other words, these things tend to get blown out of proportion. Many hostels offer lockers for your use—some with a coin-operated lock, some without a lock. I bring a chain and padlock that I use on lockers without locks and to lock my pack to something if there's no locker at all. Never have any of my possessions been stolen while in a hostel. Yet I'm careful: I take a clue from nature and sleep with my valuables between my legs, and I don't leave other things in view if I can help it—out of sight is out of mind. The overwhelming number of hostellers wouldn't think of stealing your stuff, but it only takes one to ruin your day.

Many hostels—usually only HI hostels—enforce a daily lockout, from, say, 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. During this time the staff cleans the place. Usually a lockout means that you can't enter your room, but it may mean you can't enter any part of the hostel. Lockouts are an infamous drawback to hostelling, but at least they force you to get off your butt. Don't worry, the operators of the hostel will let you leave your possessions in the room, or, if you're gonna check out later that day, they'll store your possessions in a safe place. To keep costs down, some hostels ask each guest to perform a small chore each morning; try to do it with pleasure.

Pensions

Pensions constitute a major alternative to hostels—especially in the South. Pensions are cheap hotels, often as cheap or cheaper than hostels; but they cater to travelers rather than the down and out, and as such the room-quality tends to be much better than you might expect. (Be sure, however, to check before you pay.) You either get your own room and key or share a room with other travelers. A chief advantage over hostels is that you can come and go as you please. What's more, pensions tend to be located right in the thick of the action. They don't, though, offer the cooking or laundry facilities that most hostels do.

If you plan to stay in a combination of hostels and pensions, and if you plan to adhere to common budget-travel principles, you should budget at least US$30 a day to cover your lodging, food, drink, sightseeing, metropolitan public transport, and miscellaneous expenses.

Camping

Most Europeans view camping as being cheap, socially oriented accommodation rather than the rugged, back-to-nature experience that North Americans tend to picture. As such, organized campgrounds are good places to meet the middle class sector of European society, a somewhat different crowd than you'll find in hostels or hotels. Still, since Europeans are relatively reserved, European campers probably won't come up and introduce themselves to you; you should make the first effort.

European campgrounds usually itemize fees—charging for each person, tent, vehicle and trailer. Campgrounds there are rated on a four-star scale; and apart from the basics, four-star operations are likely to provide several of the following: laundromat, grocery store, restaurant, bar, disco, swimming pool, water slide, sauna, tennis courts, fitness facilities, miniature golf course, horseback riding, a library, and a playground. Many campgrounds also offer mobile homes or bungalows for rent. Unless you plan to rent one of these, don't worry about reservations: European campgrounds are never "full"; the operators will pack you in if need be. But beware that most campgrounds lock the gate for the night at about 10:00 p.m. and for lunch from noon to 2:00 p.m. Also, most don't provide picnic tables, and, sad to say, disallow campfires. Though the toilets can be perplexing, I'd rather let you discover their wonders for yourself than force you to suffer through a description here. As for the showers, expect all varieties; and if using one that's token operated, make sure you know how much time a token gives you.

So many well-marked campgrounds dot the European landscape that finding them is a no-brainer. Look for the international camping sign: either a "C" with a tent superimposed or else a stylized trailer. Greece, however, denotes campgrounds with a sign reading "EOT." And if you find a campground labeled "FKK" or "Frei Körper Kultur" (literally translated, free body culture), you've found a clothing-optional campground. The major cities, too, harbor popular campgrounds. For instance, Thalkirchen campground on the Isar River just twenty minutes outside Munich is a wonderful spot, bordered by the river and within a forest and boasting cafes and bars and an international clientele. Most budget guidebooks describe the best campgrounds in and around the bigger cities or otherwise-popular spots. If you plan to do lots of camping, however, a special guide may be worth its price. See the Resources chapter for more on these. Also, many of the tourist offices listed in that chapter will send you detailed information about campgrounds.

Camping, of course, is a huge money saver. Sweden officially sanctions free-camping, and Norway and Finland tolerate it in principle. The people of these countries consider free-camping a right: everyman's right (allmansratten), they call it. To properly exercise this right you should camp on unfenced, uncultivated land and at least 150 meters (just over 150 yards) away from any dwelling, stay only two nights, and clean up after yourself. Allmansratten doesn't apply to motorhomes, however. I've camped on Norway's wooded hills, on precipices high above fjords, on the shores of fjords, and even within the city limits of Oslo. When hygiene becomes an issue, I'll duck in to an organized campground and either bum or pay for a shower. Furthermore, I take advantage of the long summer days in the "Land of the Midnight Sun," often setting up camp in daylight between 11:00 p.m. and midnight. (By the way, Europe in general is on a much higher latitude than the US; as such, the summer sun sets much later there.)

When not in Scandinavia, you can either take your chances and free-camp unannounced in some discreet spot or do the right thing by asking permission from the land owner. If you choose the second option, chances are your host will engage you in a fascinating conversation and, if you're lucky, invite you to dinner. Of course you can sleep in your vehicle if you like. Though explicitly prohibited in certain countries, discreet free-camping is tolerated almost everywhere.

Of course free-camping is an especially viable option for motorhomers. Many spend in the night in the parking lots of tourist attractions—under the pretense that they're waiting to get in early—or, say, supermarkets or marinas. Even more popular are the rest stops along expressways. In fact, these are designed to facilitate overnight stays. In England you're supposed to pay a £3.50 charge to stay overnight at these stops, but this charge is rarely enforced.

Most European motorhomes have chemical toilets with detachable cassettes designed to be emptied in special receptacles—called "Chem WC" units—installed at most campgrounds, or into a regular toilet. As made clear in the Shipping and Importing chapter, because irremovable holding tanks are not common on European motorhomes many campgrounds don't have a North American-type dumping station. Campgrounds or free-camping facilities with such a station are denoted by the trailer pictogram and/or the words "Entsorgungskanal" (German), "scarigare" (Italian), or "vidoir" (French). The German auto club ADAC (see the Germany chapter) publishes and distributes—free of charge to members of affiliated clubs—a list and map of such dumping stations. For a charge, some campgrounds will allow you to dump without staying overnight. Don't dump these tanks by a highway or in a field—this is highly illegal. If you must, visit a municipal sewage treatment plant to do the job.

Most campgrounds provide central drinking-water taps with a hose connected so motorhomers can fill their tank. Bring a length of hose—having a half-inch fitting—so you can fill up from a distance.

Virtually all European motorhomes are wired with 10 Amp circuits that, given the 220 Volt standard, allow you to use up to 2200 Watts (that's 10 x 220) of power at any one time. Note that an appliance such as a hair dryer can demand almost this much power. And where the voltage is lower, you'll have even less power to play with. Though in the mid eighties Europe went to a standard known as CEE 17 for campground sockets and plugs, many campgrounds are not in compliance. Still, most will provide free of charge any adapter you might need to interface a European model vehicle to the camp's system. (See the Packing chapter for a discussion of electrical standards.) Some campgrounds offer a meter at each site, charge you to hook up, and then charge per kilowatt-hour. Others impose an inclusive charge. Since you may have to park quite a distance from a socket, bring a 25 meter connecting cord designed for outdoor use.

See the Resources chapter for a listing of several books and magazines on the subject. See the Documents chapter for a discussion of the camping carnet document. See the Packing chapter for a list of necessary camping equipment.

Rental Properties

Rental arrangements usually require more lead time than do hotel arrangements, sometimes as much as eight months. And although some rentals are available for one- or two-day stays, most require a stay of a week or more. What's more, you may be asked to pay extra and in advance for maid services and the like that are normally included in the price of a hotel room. And if you must cancel, you might lose the entire prepayment. Once you arrive you'll likely be required to meet with a property manager, local agent or neighbor to obtain the keys, turn on the utilities, and arrange phone service. Still, a rental can be well worth all this.

But how to go about arranging a rental? While domestic agencies offer properties that start at about US$500 per week, you can rent a house for as little as US$150 if you bypass these agencies. Popular guidebooks sometimes list rental accommodations as well as hotels, and many popular magazines contain classified advertisements listing properties available for rental worldwide. (Though these may be placed by agencies.) The twelve-page quarterly newsletter Villa Report, Box 4690, Greenwich, CT 06830-0602, lists private homes, apartments, suites, inns, yachts, river barges and other unique and luxurious accommodations throughout the world. The semiannual World-Wide Home Rental Guide, available from 369 Montezuma Ave., Suite 338, Santa Fe, NM 87501, tel. 505 984 7080, costs US$18 for a year-long subscription and lists both individual owners and rental agencies. And the new Guide to Vacation Rentals in Europe (see the Resources chapter) may prove invaluable.

You can also make arrangements through many of the tourist offices in Europe; to get their phone numbers call the domestic tourist offices or embassies I list in the Resources chapter. Cork Kerry Tourisme, Tourist House, Grand Parade, Cork, Ireland, tel. 21 273 251, FAX 21 273 504, publishes Irish Cottage Home Holidays, comprised of a good variety of listings from EUR130–650 per week and of advertisements for agencies. Many regional German tourist offices publish excellent color-photo guides. Here are three.

A popular option in France is a country cottage or gîte ("zheet"). The Gîte Guide, published yearly by FHG Publications, Paisley, Scotland, and available in US bookstores for US$17.95, lists over 1200 gîtes throughout France, describing each in English and including photographs. The guide also gives detailed instructions about how to reserve directly with the owner or through a French booking agency. Gîtes de France is a French government agency that was created after WWII to help the French rural economy stay afloat. It serves as a sort of rental agency for private property owners who want to supplement their incomes. The units, usually in small villages or in the countryside, must meet certain government standards. A typical unit, sleeping four to six, rented through this agency goes for between US$200 and US$500 per week. Call their English-language number in Paris at 1 49 70 75 97. Another helpful source for thousands of inexpensive rural rentals in France is the Maison des Gîtes, 35, rue Godot-de-Mauroy, Paris, France, 75009. Write for an order blank listing ninety regional guidebooks costing about US$6 each. If you go this route, expect to pay about US$130 a week for a gîte that can accommodate up to six people, US$180 a week in July and August.

In Italy you can stay in a working seminary or other religious institution for about US$14­20 per night.

Sources in several countries publish listings of or arrange rentals.

If you want to physically inspect a property before you rent it, you can book a hotel room for the first day or so and then shop around for a rental. Apart from inquiring at the local tourist office, you can try stopping by the local train station: most of the main train stations host real estate agencies. You can also go direct to the manager of a large rental complex. Don't expect much, however, if you're operating in the high season.

If you're looking for a flat in Britain, the following translations of ad-speak will prove helpful.

If you want to take the easy way out and pay more money, try the property rental agencies in the Links.

Homestays and Farmstays

Rather than renting your own hideaway, you can arrange to stay with Europeans in their homes—sometimes for a charge, sometimes not. The following organizations help arrange homestays.

Also take note of the People to People series of directories by Jim Haynes, and the International Meet-the-People Directory. I describe these in the Resources chapter.

It's especially common for farmers to host travelers who want to stay for a week or more—in the farmhouse itself, a guest house, or a barn-like structure. As with a typical homestay, there's almost always a charge for such accommodation. Check out the following for more information.

Home Exchanges

As I described in the Shipping and Importing chapter, one option that gets easier and more popular each year is a home and vehicle exchange. From 1988 to 1992 the number of Europeans visiting America grew steadily from about 5.5 million to nearly 8 million; while the number of Americans traveling to Europe wavered between a high of 8 million (in 1990) to a low of 6.35 million (in 1991). I'm sure many of these Europeans would've loved to swap homes and vehicles with you. The biggest hurdle is trust; the easier it is for both parties to establish the more practical this option becomes. Several organizations arrange such swaps and provide the kind of professional, third-party assistance that's the catalyst of this trust.

The organizations I list below cannot assume responsibility for the actions of the people listed in their publications. It's ultimately your responsibility to screen potential tenants and to take whatever precautionary measures you deem necessary. Make sure your homeowners insurance covers damage done by temporary tenants and includes liability insurance to protect you in case a guest is injured in your home. If you rent to or exchange with strangers, make sure the contract stipulates that they pay for the replacement value of anything they happen to damage. Consider asking for a security deposit as well. There's really nothing stopping you from including motor vehicles in the swap. If you do include vehicles, first OK this with your auto-insurance provider, and confirm that the other party has done the same. Here are several organizations that publish directories of potential home swappers.

But again, as I described in the Shipping and Importing chapter, with a little work you may be able to make all the arrangements for a home and/or vehicle swap. If you're an academic, work for an international company or firm, or belong to some other reputable international organization (such as a church or a medical society), contact some of your European colleagues.

If you succeed in securing an exchange, consider exchanging lists of friends, too. And if you agree to exchange vehicles, get the agreement in writing, and carry it in the vehicle always, along, of course, with proof that the owner has properly insured and registered the vehicle. You need to carry a special form of authority, an Autorizacao certificate, if you plan to drive someone else's vehicle in Portugal; get the form at a registration office in Europe, or contact your local motoring club or a Portuguese tourist office or embassy. A similar requirement is made by Turkey. If you lose any of the registration or permissive documents, contact the local police. Don't swap for a French-registered vehicle, however: in France it's illegal to drive a vehicle not registered to you and not bearing a person it is registered to.

Two books on the subject of exchanges will give you more information.

Volunteer Work

Apart from the saved cost of accommodation, the spiritual rewards of volunteer work can be enormous. Recently I volunteered for a two-week stint (usually the minimum required stay) on an archaeological dig in France. The work was hard but interesting (Neanderthal artifacts); and the project provided a great opportunity to eat, drink, and play with the natives. And we ate and drank and played a lot. I made many friends—despite the fact that I was the only one on the dig who didn't speak, or at least have some background in, French. It was also a nice way to take a break from traveling.

Paid Work

You may want to work for pay while in Europe. Technically speaking, European governments require most foreigners to obtain a work permit before working for pay in Europe. Contact Council Travel, Travel CUTS, or STA Travel (see the Documents chapter) to obtain European work permits. Here are some sources to check for work.

Study Abroad

The following resources will help you arrange a stint as a student in Europe.

Transitions Abroad

If you plan to stay abroad for an extended length of time, you should consider subscribing to Transitions Abroad. This no-nonsense, information-packed magazine addresses, among other things, all the subjects discussed in this chapter. Furthermore, TA's annual Educational Travel Resource Guide is the most thorough directory available of volunteer-work, paid-work, study-abroad, and living-abroad resources; it costs just US$5. TA's mission statement is as follows.